There’s something so special about a piece that feels both simple and quietly detailed, the Garden Glow Cardigan is exactly that. From the soft texture of moss stitch to the gentle rhythm of the stripes, this design came together in such a calming, satisfying way.

I wanted to create a cardigan that feels polished yet easy to wear, something you can throw on with anything and instantly feel put together. The fitted shape, classic button-up front, and short sleeves give it that effortless, everyday charm, while the texture adds just a little extra magic. A full video tutorial is on my YouTube Channel for The Garden Glow Cardigan crochet pattern. Be sure to check it out if you have questions!

I used Lion Brand Cottino for this design. I love that it’s a weight 3 yarn which makes it so comfy to wear. There are so many beautiful colors to choose from as well! It’s a blend of cotton and merino wool making it extra soft and breathable. Check out the kit here if you are in need of yarn!

I wanted a stretchy stitch for this design and ended up going with moss stitch, such a classic! That will be the main stitch used throughout this pattern with some textured stripes spaced throughout. You can easily make your cardigan longer. Just add as many rows as you would like to the back panel just before the shaping. Then, add the same amount of rows to the front panels, just before the shaping. Feel free to switch up the buttons as well, depending on how many you want and the placement.

Links:

• The Garden Glow Cardigan crochet pattern is a kit with Lion Brand! The kit includes all the yarn needed to make your cardigan plus a free copy of the printable PDF digital download. You can even customize your yarn color.

• Are you a beginner or need some visual help? Check out my full video tutorial of The Garden Glow Cardigan crochet pattern on my YouTube Channel! Thanks for subscribing so I can bring you more free content!

• Purchase the low cost ad-free printable PDF of The Garden Glow Cardigan Crochet pattern from my Etsy shop!

• Save The Garden Glow Cardigan crochet pattern to your Ravelry queue or purchase the printable pattern.

Description:

The Garden Glow Cardigan is a button-up design featuring timeless texture and a flattering silhouette. Worked in moss stitch with delicate textured stripes throughout, it offers just the right amount of visual interest while staying relaxing to crochet. Light, lovely, and easy to style, it’s a piece you’ll reach for in every season. A full video tutorial is included to guide you along the way.

Materials:

• Light (3) Weight yarn, Lion Brand Cottino in “dill”, 750(820, 900, 990, 1120, 1260, 1400, 1510, 1620) yards OR  3(3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins

• G/4.00mm Crochet Hook

• Needles

• Scissors

• Measuring Tape

• Stitch Markers (9)

• 13mm Buttons (9)

Gauge:

22 Sts (moss stitch) by 20 Rows=4×4”

To create a gauge swatch, work up 28 Sc Sts, then follow Row 2 of the Back Panel main body, repeat Row 3 for 24 rows. Your swatch will be larger than the required gauge. Measure 4×4” within that swatch to check gauge.

Sizes:

XS(S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Video Link:

Need a little extra help? Check out my full video tutorial here!

Finished Measurements:

Notes:

• This cardigan is made from the bottom up in separate panels.

• The starting Ch 2 counts as the turning Ch and as the Ch-1 Sp.

• The Ch 2 in Row 7 and all of it’s repeats does not count as a St.

• The Ch 1 in Row 9 and all of it’s repeats does not count as a St.

• You can adjust the length of your cardigan by adding or removing as many Row 3 repeats that you like, just before the neckline shaping of the back panel. Add or remove the same amount of rows to each front panel, just before the neckline shaping. Take into account this will alter the yardage requirements listed above.

Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms):

Ch(s)- Chain(s)

Sc- Single Crochet

St(s)- Stitch(es)

BLO- Back Loop Only

Sk- Skip

Hdc- Half Double Crochet

Sl St- Slip Stitch

Sp- Space

RS- Right Side

SM- Stitch Marker

Pattern:

Back Panel-

Ch 7

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (6 Sc)

Rows 2-80(88, 100, 112, 124, 136, 148, 156, 168): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc BLO in next 4 Sts, 1 Sc in last, turn. (6 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of

the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 Sc into the end of each ribbing row across, turn.  (80(88, 100, 112, 124, 136, 148, 156, 168) Sc)

Row 2(RS): Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in next St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (80(88, 100, 112, 124, 136, 148, 156, 168) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (80(88, 100, 112, 124, 136, 148, 156, 168) Sts) Note: don’t forget the starting Ch 2 counts as the turning Ch plus a Ch-1 Sp. So your final Sc will be worked into it.

Rows 4-6: Repeat Row 3.

Row 7: Ch 2 (does not count), 1 Hdc in first St, 1 Sl St in next, *1 Hdc, 1 Sl St*, repeat from * to * across row, turn. (80(88, 100, 112, 124, 136, 148, 156, 168) Sts) Note: you work your Sl St into the Ch-1 Sp, not the actual St.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Row 9: Ch 1 (does not count), 1 Sl St in first St, 1 Hdc in next, *1 Sl St, 1 Hdc*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (80(88, 100, 112, 124, 136, 148, 156, 168) Sts) Note: you work your Hdc into the Ch-1 Sp, not the actual St. Don’t forget the starting ch 2 from the previous row counts so your last Hdc is worked into that Sp.

Row 10: Repeat Row 2.

Rows 11-14: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 15-18: Repeat Rows 7-10.

Rows 19-22: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 23-26: Repeat Rows 7-10.

Rows 27-34: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 35-38: Repeat Rows 7-10.

Rows 39-46: Repeat Row 3.

Rows 47-50: Repeat Rows 7-10.

Rows 51-77(79, 83, 85, 89, 91, 95, 97, 97): Repeat Row 3.

We will now be shaping the neckline.

Row 78(80, 84, 86, 90, 92, 96, 98, 98): Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row for (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts), leave remaining Sts unworked, turn. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Row 79(81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 99): Repeat Row 3. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Fasten off.

Opposite shoulder-

With your finished shoulder on the right hand side, count in 16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts from left to right and join with a Sl St.

Row 78(80, 84, 86, 90, 92, 96, 98, 98): Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Row 79(81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 99): Repeat Row 3. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Front Panel (Left when worn)-

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (6 Sc)

Rows 2-38(42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 76, 82): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc BLO in next 4 Sts, 1 Sc in last, turn. (6 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of

the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Repeat main body rows 1-74(76, 80, 82, 86, 88, 92, 94, 94) of the back panel.

Row 75(77, 81, 83, 87, 89, 93, 95, 95): Do not Ch, Sk over first st, 1 Sl St into the next 13 Sts (your st count decreases by 14) Sl St over 1 more time and Ch 2 (counts as a turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (24(28, 34, 40, 46, 52, 58, 62, 68) Sts)

Row 76(78, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94, 96, 96): Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across until 4 Sts remain, leave unworked, turn. (20(24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 58, 64) Sts)

Row 77(79, 83, 85, 89, 91, 95, 97, 97): Do not Ch, Sk over first St, 1 Sl St into the next 3 Sts (your st count decreases by 4), Sl St over 1 more time and Ch 2 (counts as a turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Row 78(80, 84, 86, 90, 92, 96, 98, 98) & 79(81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 99): Repeat Row 3 of back panel. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to sew the final row made to your back panel.

Front Panel (Right when worn)-

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (6 Sc)

Rows 2-38(42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 76, 82): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc BLO in next 4 Sts, 1 Sc in last, turn. (6 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of

the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Repeat main body rows 1-74(76, 80, 82, 86, 88, 92, 94, 94) of the back panel.

Row 75(77, 81, 83, 87, 89, 93, 95, 95): Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across until 14 Sts remain, leave unworked, turn. (24(28, 34, 40, 46, 52, 58, 62, 68) Sts)

Row 76(78, 82, 84, 88, 90, 94, 96, 96): Do not Ch, Sk over first St, 1 Sl St into next 3 Sts (your St count decreases by 4), Sl St over 1 more time and Ch 2 (counts as a turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (20(24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 58, 64) Sts)

Row 77(79, 83, 85, 89, 91, 95, 97, 97): Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across until 4 Sts remain, leave unworked, turn. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Row 78(80, 84, 86, 90, 92, 96, 98, 98) & 79(81, 85, 87, 91, 93, 97, 99, 99): Repeat Row 3 of back panel. (16(20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 54, 60) Sts)

Fasten off, leave a tail long enough to sew the final row made to your back panel.

Sleeves (make 2)-

Ch 7 (begin with at least 6” in your starting tail so you can later use it to sew up the side of the sleeve.)

Row 1: 1 Sc in the second Ch from the hook and each Ch across, turn. (6 Sc)

Rows 2-66(68, 76, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104 106): Ch 1, 1 Sc in first St, 1 Sc BLO in next 4 Sts, 1 Sc in last, turn. (6 Sc)

Do not turn after the last row made. We will now be working Row 1 of

the main body into the ends of the ribbing rows.

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 Sc into the end of each ribbing row across, turn. (66(68, 76, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104 106) Sc)

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in next St, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (66(68, 76, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104 106) Sts)

Row 3: Ch 2 (counts as turning Ch and Ch-1 Sp), 1 Sc in first Ch-1 Sp, *Ch 1, Sk 1, 1 Sc in next Ch-1 Sp*, repeat from * to * across the row, turn. (66(68, 76, 86, 92, 96, 100, 104 106) Sts) Note: don’t forget the starting Ch 2 counts as the turning Ch plus a Ch-1 Sp. So your final Sc will be worked into it.

Rows 4-16(16, 16, 16, 14, 14, 14, 12, 12): Repeat Row 3.

Fasten off, leave a long tail to seam your sleeve to your cardigan.

Assembly-

Block your panels to the measurements listed above. I recommend a

steam block.

Place your front and back panels together RS facing.

Using your preferred seaming method attach the front panels to the back

panel at the shoulders. Be sure your panels are aligned and that you

aren’t bunching or skipping stitches. Next, using the same joining

process as above, we will be attaching the sleeves to the top. Make sure the center of the sleeve is aligned with the shoulder seam. Be sure to

check that your sleeves are even on both the front and back panel as you

go. It is helpful to use SM’s here to keep your sleeve in place as you

join. Finally, fold your top so that the back and front panels are on top of

each other, RS facing. Seam from the cuffs to the underarm and down

the side of the cardigan.

Button Band-

With your cardigan RS out, join yarn with a Sl St to the bottom of the front panel on the left hand side.

Row 1: Ch 1, Sc evenly up the side of the front panel, around the neckline and down the side of the second front panel until you reach the corner, turn. Note- St count is not crucial here just try to keep your Sts evenly spaced. I recommend about 2 Sts for every 3 rows, adjusting where needed. Too many Sts uses will cause your band to be wavy,  so you might need less than you think.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St up the side of the front panel, when you reach the corner of the neckline, work 3 Sc into the same spot to help “round” the corner. Continue with 1 Sc in each St until you reach the second corner, work 3 Sc into the same St. 1 Sc in each remaining St back down, turn.

Next, we will be marking off where we want our buttons/button holes to be before moving onto the following row. First, decide on how many buttons you plan on using. Then, take your SMs and space them evenly out on the left-hand side of your cardigan to mark off the button holes. I placed my first one on the 5th St up from the bottom. Then I left 6 Sts in between each SM for a total of 9 SMs.

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St, when you reach the first SM, remove it, Ch 1 and Sk 1 to create the button hole. Continue the same process with each SM. When you reach the corner St at the neckline, work 3 Sc into it. 1 Sc in each St around the neckline until you reach the second corner of the neckline, work 3 Sc into it. 1 Sc in each remaining St to the end, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, 1 Sc in each St, When you reach the corner St at the neckline, work 3 Sc into it. 1 Sc in each St around the neckline until you reach the second corner of the neckline, work 3 Sc into it. 1 Sc in each St to the end, working your Scs into each Ch-1 Sp as you reach them.

Fasten off, weave in any remaining ends.

I hope you guys enjoyed this pattern! Check out the different ways to wear it below!

CODE: GLOW